Author: Tova

I spent 2 weeks in El Salvador in March 2026, and absolutely loved it. It afforded a more low key-travel destination which was exactly what I was looking for. So close to home from Miami, and immediately you are plunged into a different world. Here are snippets of my journal from my time there.

2 Week Itinerary:
San Salvador > Santa Ana > Sunzal / El Tunco > La Union > Suchitoto > San Salvador

San Salvador

March 2, 2026

Pick-up truck, rumbling, dusty, trash streets, packed, guy’s backpack pressed up against me, holding on dear life, grip hurts, hot, no one talking just rumbling of car and bumps, fear of dogs; locals reassure me. Riding motos.

—

The adventure begins. I splurge on a moto for $3 to the park, it arrives in minutes. Everything I love has returned. My love and I – travel- have reunited. It’s like meeting up with a friend you’re excited to see.

The routine is broken. I’ve arrived in a new airport, a new place to lay my head. Breakfast is not my usual toast with hummus but “un desayuno típico”; scrambled eggs with refried beans, avocado, fried plantain, queso fresco and toast. Instead of driving I am whisked away on a motorcycle and taken to Parque Cuscatlan, where I hope to join a walking tour. Except I haven’t registered – I don’t want to join and be the only person… I want to scope it out. I step off the moto and before I even have the chance to roam the park alone, a man in a red t-shirt greets me. Hi! Are you looking for me – David? Are you doing a tour? It’s just past 9am and the tour I want to join doesn’t start until 9:45am. I ask him which tour, knowing there’s another tour that starts at 9am and turns out he is indeed from guru walk and 5 people have signed up – so I am lucky. If no one signs up he wouldn’t be here, he says.

Since I am early, I tell him I’ll go for a walk. I was hoping to start my day with a roam around the park but Parque Cuscatlan it is roped off. I ask him why and he says that on the weekends the park is llena de personas – full of people, and today is muy tranquila, and they will take care of the park today – park maintenance. I am disappointed, as a quiet park sounds perfect to me, but instead I find a pedestrian pathway that winds its way over the park with views of familiar trees from home – gumbo limbo, bottle brush tree, and mangos. Later on the walking tour, I learn that “not even chickens lay eggs on Mondays” 🙂

Gone were the nerves I had three years ago when I embarked on my first solo out of the country trip to Mexico. I have now traveled solo to over 20 countries I have the confidence and experience that’s come with that. Plus, it’s Central America and I speak enough Spanish to have basic conversations.

Tuesday March 3

6:33am fan in my hostel bed is whirring, chorus birds chirping. Tiredness heavy on eyelids.

Walking tour notes:

Feel like I’m here at right time; on the cusp of so much change. This is what I love so much about travel, I am learning not from books or news but from being in a place. I just got a 4 hour lesson about a country’s past, present and future from a local, walking the streets, going to museum together, drinking horchata from reputable stand.

Meeting people like Robert from New Zealand cycling from Alaska to Argentina. Unreal. About half way thru 12k km. People going on insane adventures and living atypical adventurous lives.

Santa Ana

Sitting in square. I love that all locals are out in streets. Don’t really see that at home. People go to restaurants. Where is there a square at night where everyone hangs out and don’t need to spend money???

—

Feeling happy, content, relaxed. Nice to have a chill morning. To be able to walk to my coffee place for the third time and feel like a regular. To not know or care about what day it is. To be away from my computer and the concept of being productive. To see so much more life in the streets. Women cooking outside. Music and sounds and the unpleasant smell of diesel fuel. The rush of trucks and scooters and cars and chicken buses. Kids going to school, people going to work, the hustlers, the chillers. It’s colorful and so very alive.

I am just a few minutes from the central square, from parque la libertad and la catedral, where the main action is.

Do I want to work less and travel more? Maybe instead of taking one week off I take two? I still have yet to see Bolivia, southern Chile, southern Argentina, most of Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, Guyana, Venezuela. Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Belize, Panama. The places to travel to are endless.

This is me. Solo wanderer, explorer, adventurer. Lives to see new things, interact with new people, to break free from routine, work, and the same old everyday life.

Travel is maybe the only time I can get along with -most- people I meet – if they’re open – because right off the bat we have something in common and something to talk about – what we’re doing, what we’ve done, what we’re planning to see.

Antonio tells me last night of where he wants to go next year – Asia. India, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines… we both want to do to South Africa and on safari.

It’s this excitement and his mention of all these new places I haven’t been to -and he’s been to Balkans and liked it- that reinvigorates me. Also traveling like this is not for the old or tired, truly. It takes energy, and desire, and the physical and mental ability to do so. It’s not a typical, lay-on-the-beach vacation. It’s navigating public transport, asking many people how to get to a place, it’s trekking in the heat, it’s hiking up volcanoes under a searing sun, it’s holding on for dear life in the back of a pickup truck. It’s trying new food and drinks and hoping and praying you don’t get ill from it. It’s really not for the faint of heart. This life is for people who seek something more; an unquenchable desire to explore; to learn; to challenge yourself; to leave everything and everyone you know and care about for something else that you love: adventure.

It’s also not just about sightseeing. It’s learning. Is there any better way to learn about history, culture and other ways of life than by being in a place? I think not. I soak up the knowledge from locals on walking tours, visit museums, and search the internet for other questions that arise along the way. I don’t get to just read about how El Salvador has changed, I get to experience it firsthand.

When you stay in hostels you have to accept that in your late 30s you might be the oldest one or close to it. That it will be rare to meet other people your age. If you do want to meet people your age, better to try guest houses or tours. It’s harder, for sure. Most people my age are married with families, or traveling with a partner. I think it’s a very, very tiny portion of people who are single and traveling solo, both men and women. But it’s ok. I’m happy. No, I’m thrilled, to be here doing this.

—

Today was one of my favorite days and outings. It was an easy escape from the noise and fumes of the city, offering a gorgeous view of these waterfalls that you would think would be cold and refreshing but it’s actually hot! I was one direct bus 210 that leaves constantly from the main terminal and goes to atiquizaya, takes about 40 min for .48. The bus leaves you off at parque San Juan and from there you take a little carrito or tuk tuk for $2 down an unpaved, rocky and dusty road for a 10-15 min ride. It is quiet with few tourists there. I found a spot for myself and soaked myself in the hot water, then just my feet, until these tiny fish were bothering me (more looks and not knowing if they do damage so I then just lay down on the rocks relaxing in nature). It was awesome. Then flagged carrito going back and he was honest, maybe because he already had passenger in back which I didn’t notice immediately. So he charged me $2 whereas guy going there charged me $5 I bargained to $4.

After I got off at bus in Santa Ana, I walked thru outdoor market and even though I was listening to my music, I could hear noise coming from my right. I walk into this place where locals are playing their version of bingo! I was welcomed in, and it was no problem to watch and not take part. Their version of playing lottery. Play certain number of tabletas with corn! And can win $30-65? Not sure.

—
I have only had cold one minute showers all week and more cold showers await.

—

Went to hectors walking tour, except he wasn’t there and I nearly left… then he shows up 5 minutes late which no guide has ever done on a walking tour, and he proceeds to waste 45 minutes of our time by saying over and over again how this isn’t a typical walking tour about dates and buildings and we can ask him anything, except someone mentioned politics and history and he still was saying nothing. I seriously contemplated leaving several times because I’ve taken so maybe regular walking tours that were incredible- informative, honest, passionate, etc. like there’s reason guides are certified because they know and insane amount of knowledge and a good guide will pack in so much. He was opposite. So chill and unstructured and uncaring about time and just how hung out with people for 24 hours and went to el tunco, how he hung out with few girls and got matching tattoos. and I’m like this is bullshit, go around say names and fun fact. Then he had no fun fact about himself. We finally go get coffee bec it’s what people wanted – he called our group small even tho we were solid group of 20 or so. Then finally at Beats coffee he starts to tell his story in bits and pieces as people asked questions.

Turns out he left El Salvador -escaped- at 15 with a backpack. Five of his friends were in gangs. He was pressured to join a gang. Which meant a group of men would beat you up for 15 minutes and if you survived the beating by putting your hands up you were in -and he didn’t think he would survive- or you had to kill someone, an innocent person the next person who would come around the corner, didn’t matter if it’s a kid or your brother or whoever you’d have to shoot to be inducted and he didn’t want to do that either so he went home, packaged backpack, took different route home, stole some money from his dad like $25 and took chicken bus and went to border of Guatemala to work on farm. His parents went to US. He came back 3 years ago, at 18 I suppose, he’s now 21, because of safety. All his friends have been killed – he made phone calls before returning. he feels safe. Parents came back too. Four sisters. In University studying sociology.

Will probably vote for bukele even tho doesn’t like him because no better option. says like toxic relationship. Basically it’s been so bad here that for safety alone people are happy with I’m but there are no personal human rights, and still state of emergency which gives police right to shoot and do whatever they want. Basically they accept bare minimum and no one better.

Said story of how gangs would push someone’s mouth against concrete and break jaw and teeth.

How they extorted 70% of everyone’s wages so we’re earning so little. How this woman couldn’t afford it anymore so they shot her in back over 50 times with handgun and her young son witnessed this and as revenge killed over 30 people in gang, and is now in prison this is interview, and has also raped etc and has no remorse.

Didn’t speak well of US, never made things better and never welcomed them in with open arms. He then took us on food market tour which was AWESOME. Honestly wished I did it in other places like Vietnam, because I’d have no idea what to get and what’s safe to eat. My stomach is gurgling like crazy rest of day, but had some really good food. I loved this fried corn cake was amazing. And this sweet milk dish.

So in end glad I did it, and to get that kind of first-hand perspective and story was enlightening. Also that official guides are endorsed by government and then must not criticize so explains why Dave in San Salvador gave such glossy review of Bukele without any criticisms and didn’t mention state of emergency, loss of human rights, and just painted this rosy photo of how amazing things are now – which in comparison they are, and how Bukele doesn’t pocket all money like previous politicians, but he didn’t explain it well like hector did, it was very rosy and one sided. Hector also said with tattoos he gets stopped a lot, how tourist in el tunco was imprisoned because of tattoo he got and not sure what happened to him.

But here he is 21 doing this walking tour after got fired two months after doing call center job for Walmart and says people cursing him out and his accent and wanted to speak to American. And using money to help pay for his university.

Juayua

I felt such relief to be out of Santa Ana which felt so dirty, chaotic, noisy, full of fumes and here it’s so much quieter, cleaner, prettier, more in mountains which I had no idea, cooler but also was cloudy. The vibes here (at the hostel) are so good, the beds so large, and place is so nice I see why people like it so much.

—

Craziest thing just happened. First I went to town of Salcoatitan to ceiba tree which was really cool. It was only ten min drive from Juayua- where I checked out of at 10:15am after talking to mom. Luckily bus driver shouted to me bec I didn’t realize we were there already.

Then took bus to nuahizaltco, the thing is, I had a couple hours to spare, I was going to just wander around town and get lunch. I was thinking a fruit smoothie would be nice. I pass by these nice-looking little shops and see smoothie sign. I look at it, then check my phone to look for reviews. But then guy calls to me who is sitting next to some kids. He talks to me in English, what are you looking for? Do you want some drinks, water? I said no, a smoothie un batido. He said that place is closed today. Then he started talking to me – can I offer you some juice? Come sit down, bring her water. He grew up here, then LA worked in Miami, at Temple a bar in south beach. Came back year ago built this mall named after grandmother.

He then asks if I have time to go Rio, he can take me to his sister’s to have lunch. I tell him I don’t have lots of time need to be back at 1pm. It was just after 11am. He says he can take me to River. I say ok. He was going to take pickup but instead gets uber – guys hanging out side of road/ and pays $6 to drive us. We the hike thru field with beautiful view down to canyon, then to waterfall- the one I’ve been wanting to go to!! but I didn’t think I had enough time. We get there and it’s beautiful. He tells me his story. How his mom left him and sister at 7 and 14 to go to us to join cousins for better life. Then went himself at 14 with guy Coyote who takes ppl across for 15k. Goes LA. Mom and sis still la. Also traumatic separation from sister bec with 15k can go with coyotes to illegally cross but have decide who goes him or sis and he goes. Sister owns 17 restaurants including cafe Albania. He built shopping center named after grandma close to one million, came back here one year ago . Started in furniture store cleaning bathroom, then sales, then manager. Started his own white glove furniture store delivery service, sometimes encountered racists people in LA. Hates his accent. Like kkk, says one time woman opened door and said thought white people would be delivering so he said sorry ma’am and told his team to leave. Whereas here in town everyone friendly and nice most part don’t care race. Community. People know each other, says famous in town wants to be mayor perhaps. Sad part is so many poor people. Showed me where mom dropped him off child carefree. Education free country. Health care free but not good and sometimes no medicine. Mom arthritis. Wants give back. Employs twenty people day, dream was always come back. Prayed god. Organized river cleanup showed me photos, video. Said people not educated. Happy here. Lives retired lifestyle gets up when wants goes bed when want. Collects rent from place he built 400 month each person sometimes can’t afford it doesn’t collect, used to want to be cool in LA bought fancy car fancy air Jordan shoes bags, and here just needs car get in point a to b. Doesn’t know why was into that in US not him. Worked twenty hours day in US. Here relaxed lifestyle. People happy. Wishes bukele would help bring costs down. Says property prices gone up immensely since gangs gone. Before everything cheap now expensive. Small plot land 100k, he paid 350k for land. Says if come back offer me free Airbnb, would take me to other river hike longer.

El Tunco / Sunzal

There is nothing better than having a day like today where nothing is on the agenda. A day to relax and just read. Do nothing. only thing I am doing is writing places for surf lesson for tomorrow.

Otherwise sitting on chair feeling ocean breeze, reading. No bus to catch, to town to explore, no tour to go on. No work (except emails still – booking jobs for home); no set agenda.

What most people do on vacation is not what I do on vacation. It’s more of an adventure. Which I love! But having days like today is important to take care of myself and not feel burnt out.

I think that’s been biggest lesson for me and also why solo travel is awesome – it’s ultimate self-care. It’s listening to myself and taking care of my needs.

It’s knowing when I want and am up for an adventure, knowing when I need a day like today to just chill. When I want to eat out and when I’m craving my own food. When it’s time to splurge on a private room.

—

I had this profound feeling today of finding myself here; between the feeling of authenticity with the haircut, and the joy I felt in the waves, it was this feeling of contentment and joy and arrival and happy just being. I would lay back and let the current drag me in and spit me back out, and spin me around. I admired the sun shining on the hills which looked like a double humped camel. I’d have my gaze set strictly on the wave as it approached, a frothy swell threatening to overtake me. I lay back squeezing in delight, body floating inches above the black sandy floor bed, as it would rapidly come closer into view. Then just before it would crash over me, I’d stand up or kneel and then put my back toward it and press up against its power. Then just before lifeguard whistled at people who dared to go further out. There were three young men who refused to listen and would dive into the waves. The lifeguard notified some policemen – I noticed a very heavy police presence in el zonte, the most I’ve seen yet, several men posted next to and in front of resorts – who had a 10 minute chat with them. I thought maybe they’d get fined. Next thing you know the men are back in the water diving into the waves, but soon after they took off. It looked like their parents were nearby as the dad joined them once the police approached. And then dad talked to mom afterward.

I tried to be cautious, knowing how dangerous water can be. In the US I don’t believe they would’ve allowed anyone into the water at all. Not with those conditions. Even at one point I realized I had allowed the waves to drag me in too deep, and I quickly went back to shore. One wave was so strong and powerful it was nearly over me and dragged me quite a few feet to shore. When I emerged, a woman nearby remarked at how strong it was too. Sometimes I felt slightly burned by the force of it dragging my body against the sand, and other times I felt like I could have sprained or even broken an ankle or wrist at the power with which it would come at me. I’ve never experienced anything like it in my life, but it was extremely fun.

I ended up retreating when I realized how potentially dangerous it could be – even with the one lifeguard there he didn’t seem to be intently watching us and sometimes was chatting with someone- and played further ashore, covering my limbs with the heavy, waterlogged black sand that I imagine is from volcanic ash.

La Union

Sunscreen on fellow passengers.

Smoothie in bag, spilling on bus.

Silk Road. Africa. China. Camper van. National parks. Nature. Bike packing. Adventures. Loving life. Travel world. India. Pakistan. Why settle for boring life when you only have one shot at this? Fuck living life just to made money. Adventure, a real life awaits if you just leave.

So much I want to see and do and experience. And it’s not being at home walking the same streets staring at screens and using addictive apps.

Suchitoto

Oooph was my longest travel day but thankfully all went well, and very thankful I chose Suchitoto and that I had time to come here, and that I found a private room for $30 with AC! Only several mosquitoes made their way in and so were taunting me 😭 otherwise all is great and right center of town and next door to plate museum everyone mentions!

—

I love Suchitoto so much. So glad to be here; unlike anywhere else in El Salvador. It’s small, quiet, charming. So much of El Salvador is noisy, dirty, chaotic, polluted. Even pretty places like el Sunzal /en tunco are situated close to busy main loud road. But Suchitoto has quiet, small town charming vibes – similar to Villa de Leyva; even to Antigua but better because smaller and less touristy. It just is refreshing. It’s clean, cobblestones, with a cool breeze at night – I know during the day I will be roasting. All to say, all signs are pointing to fact that I should extend my stay one night.

—

I’m so happy here. Being in this hotel, in this city, in this country. Right here, right now. My windows are open and I have a view of the garden. No jobs, no responsibilities, nowhere to be. No list of tasks to get done. Just me existing on this planet.

I feel so content. So happy, at peace. I’m alone but I like being alone. I keep thinking about what my therapist said – how I’m my own best friend. She’s right, I am.

Last night I started watching how to lose a guy in ten days, then fell asleep in middle.

God this place is so much better than San Salvador. I’m really not a city girl. I love quiet, tranquil surroundings. Nature. Plants. I don’t like city noises, pollution.

I have to keep leaving and doing this.

—

Why is it that I am so happy and content here? Slowing down, enjoying life. Having the ability to do this. Why do I not really wonder much about my purpose when I’m traveling? It’s like I’m doing what I was meant to do, and that uneasiness I get sometimes at home is sign I need to do something else – this. This is why I was put on earth. There’s really no other way to explain my contentment when I’m doing this, and how everything always seems to conspire to help me along my journey.

—

Remembering how when I was telling woman in Juayúa hostel about travel burnout as she was traveling along time she said something about 3s- stay in place at least 3 days, and country at least 2 weeks, something like that. I can see point of staying in place at least 3 days. I feel like there can be this urge to always want newness and change, but sometimes when I stay longer in a place – as long as I don’t completely overstay – I’ll always find more things to do. For example, in Santa Ana I remember feeling like I could’ve left sooner, but then I went to hot waterfalls and was one of my favorite things there.

It’s hard to say what my highlights have been here because I’ve really liked it all. I feel so fortunate health wise, energy wise, and seriously the only time I ever felt not so good was just a little bit of time that night at the hostel in Casa coco and even that wasn’t terrible…

—

I’m glad I haven posted on insta. I still have spent too much time on app tho. One reel I saw today said something interesting; how being smart in life is living life the way you want. There are so many people you’d call smart but then aren’t happy or aren’t living life they really want to be living. I thought that was an interesting take I never thought of.

—

It’s hard to tell you my highlights because I’ve truly enjoyed my entire trip. Suchitoto was actually a pleasant surprise; I liked it so much more than I thought I would.

What else comes to mind? Riding the pickup truck, hitching with random people; hot waterfalls; seven waterfalls; Santa Ana volcano – view from top (oddly didn’t give me sense of awe maybe too many people); La golondrinera – going with Roman there; Suchitoto – chilling in hammock at mirador and boat ride; and just Suchitoto vibes; walking tour with Dave – tasting horchata and learning about country; hector walking tour hearing his story and tasting so much street food; omg day I did buzz cut and spent afternoon in water in crazy waves; an of course the overnight mountain camping – making of 10 min before!! taking 4×4 up to top and meeting both women and Fidel and him telling us about lenca culture in temple; the rainbow slide today 🙂

Most underwhelming: ruta de las Flores – the towns themselves were nothing special to me. I don’t get it. I liked Juayua the best – but also don’t get food festival rave. No different for me than eating outside or inside a restaurant feels silly.

I really enjoyed all my short interactions and conversations with the locals – it really helps knowing language and being able to talk to people . Like retired guy yesterday.

Highlight for me was also just learning and understanding the place, the history and culture. I wish I had done this more in other places I’ve been to. When I look back I didn’t do this in Asia. No walking tours. Actually did one Vietnam was terrible. In future would be great to do street food tours – should’ve done it in Vietnam.

I think tours are so awesome both for the experience and meeting people.

Food- loved pupusas with toppings. Great coffee. Overall good food. Simple, healthy -ish; not so processed.

People – friendly, want to help – particularly if hitching.

Safety- felt sooo safe. Nice to be able to hold phone and not worry.

Only felt unsafe with some stray dogs.

I would say it’s not a wow place like Faroe Islands. But if want an “easier” compact country, experience different culture, filed with lots of mini kinds of adventures (surfing would’ve been cool if that worked out), great for that. For me was solid 10/10 experience. I didn’t have a bad day here.

—

What a perfect end to my trip. Earlier I wrote that this country is missing music and dancing. Well I leave the national library and then there’s a street performer with an electric guitar busting out all kinds of tunes- American rock, Latin music, cumbia – an after watching people dance for awhile I finally joined in toward end of song I love by Marc Anthony which was very fitting – Vivir mi vida – and the woman were so happy I joined it was awesome, and then I joined on and off, an met woman who lives Reno Nevada for over 40 years as she dragged me in too… an guess who I saw again, Marcela! Who I met on top of El Espiritu de la Montana! So friendly she shrieked and we gave each other big hug. Perfect ending to an amazing trip.