Journal snippets from 3 weeks of backpacking Guatemala in 2023
MIA-GUA
Guatemala City > Antigua > San Pedro La Laguna – Lake Atitlan > Semuc Champey > Flores > Guatemala City
Day 1: Guatemala City
Had a successful first day in Guatemala City 🙂 it was magical. Sometimes goosebumps inducing. Felt the magic of being in a new place, reminding me of why I fell in love with Mexico and I suppose Latin America, and just traveling in general.
I wonder… if I didn’t already have my next hostel booked if I would stay here longer. The idea of feeling places out. On the one hand, because it’s already booked I’m ok with leaving. I also feel so good about my decision to stay here and explore the city for the day. I really didn’t see any tourists and honestly I’m beyond confused why so many blogs say to leave the city – the capital at that – as if it doesn’t deserve even a day to explore! After just one single afternoon here, I can say this place easily deserves a day, probably 2 or 3. There are museums to see, other parts of the city. The city on a Sunday was so alive once you got closer to parque central. What was a 40 minute walk from the hostel to parque central felt like 15 minutes because as soon as I got to Calle 6, it’s closed to traffic and is full of pedestrians, musicians, shops and restaurants. You really feel the pulse of the city.
I find it odd that the Uber driver said I couldn’t even walk during the day to parque central alone. That I needed to go with a friend and a big, strong friend to fight off ladrones. I asked the Venezuelan guy working the front desk and he said it was fine to walk alone during the day. Personally I felt safe here, made sure to be back just before nightfall. There was only one creep I encountered asking for money a block from the hostel near a modern shopping center, and when I said no he asked what are you doing tonight. I ignored him and kept going. His English sounded so American he didn’t even look Guatemalan.
—
It was definitely this overwhelm once outside the airport. So many families waiting excitedly for loved ones. Lots of white taxis. I tried Uber and even though I had LTE (thankfully my phone connected right away, lost connection and then reconnected), it wasn’t loading. I connected to airport wifi which I knew about because Kenna connected to it, and finally Uber worked. Only 30 quetzales to hostal, so a few bucks. However I didn’t see Uber and was little stressful but then saw him thankfully. Was running around frantically at one point. I wasn’t sure which side to wait on …. Turned out he was near taxis and didn’t think he’d be there. Anyways it worked out. I spoke to drive in Spanish and understood most of what he said not everything. He told me about an earthquake in Feb. of 1974 that caused a lot of deaths. He is in his 60s, likes doing Uber he gets to listen to music all day. He loves music and plays s bunch of instruments.
It’s funny or strange how I don’t really want to speak Spanish st home but here I was immediately wanting to practice my Spanish so even when he spoke English I mostly kept speaking spanish. I need to practice it so my grammar can be corrected.
I think this city get a really bad rap and when you’re here the reality is so different.
I just love solo travel because my self-confidence goes up so much and it feels so good to do everything on my own and see I can do it. Navigating, buying street food, communicating and chatting with locals. I don’t always understand but I understand enough.
Can’t believe I’m here living another travel adventure!
Day 2:
Was feeling pretty unsocial at hostel today. Seems to be a mix of some social people but more people like me that seem to want their space so def introverts out here like me, lots of them here haha. I have such an interesting combo of sometimes really appreciating and valuing connection and interaction and it ends up being highlight of my trip and also loving being solo and processing everything and being so ok with downtime like this to write.
—
I got to market in Antigua and I asked woman where here a place to eat… she said comedores … and she said not there (in the touristy area) she pointed me in direction where she said there’s a good place where people eat. Well i found it right away and it looked perfect. People were eating there, locals and two tourists with local guide. I asked woman there making handmade tortillas if they have vegetarian plates without chicken or meat she said yes. well like 5 min later they brought me a place with rice beans salad potatoes, handmade tortillas and a creamy drink. It was 25 quetzales $3 and tasted great. Couldn’t believe my luck. Then I was like what do I do now lol. So I climbed cerro de la cruz.
First impression arriving in Antigua are so many tourists here. In Guatemala City I didn’t see any except in hostel and not gonna lie I was kind of turned off and missing Guatemala City …. But then as I started walking I realized there’s a quietness here compared to Guate. Life is slower here. I can sense the difference.
Day 3: Hobbitenango
I have to admit I haven’t been feeling the magic. I’m not having a bad time. I don’t know what’s happening. Wondering if I’ve locked myself in to too many days here and then trying to fill my days and while this city is nice, I haven’t connected with it. There’s no live music in the street. It doesn’t feel alive the way Guatemala City felt on Sunday, or Oaxaca when I was there.
Day 4: Acatenango & Fuego!
Day 5: Santa Clara ruins. Wandered around town. Procession.
Day 6: San Pedro la Laguna: Lake Atitlan
The novelty of seeing new things and meeting new people and experiencing new cultures is just… I can’t find the words. There’s nothing like it. No photos or videos will ever replace being in a place.
Was so nice talking to Shelley today on bus. She was so friendly, hilarious and talkative and great conversationalist. She’s been on so many adventures! It’s inspiring. From the UK. 10 years ago she and friend bought scooter and then two met German guy and they traveled Vietnam and Cambodia 6 week. Hi chi minh to Siam reap I think.
She did Camino del Santiago. she just finished Everest base camp 12 days. Traveling now for few months! As is Stephanie from Germany. Germans travel so much! So she was in Nepal and then Mexico and now Guatemala . I was thinking of skipping semuc but after speaking with her I’m going to do it. Plus van ride today went well. I just have to decide if want to still go to Xela or not.
Day 7: Day Trip to Santiago, San Juan – basketball with locals.
Guatemalans must be one of the friendliest kindest people I’ve encountered. Saying hi on street and so helpful.
Well today has been pure magic. Really it was the basketball game with locals that has given me a high and put me on cloud 9. I took a Tuk tuk to San Juan in afternoon for 5 quetzales. Then wandered. Passed a park where I paid 3 quetzales to use bathroom and watched a local guy playing basketball. I was shy at first to ask if I could try to make a shot so I watched. Another guy joined in. I watched both. Guy number two left. I summoned courage to ask puedo tratar. And we tossed ball back and forth. Then two women approached if we wanted to play a game. I admit I was scared at first. I figured I couldn’t give in to fear and say no so I agreed. They said until 21 I was like i don’t understand but sure. So it was me and guy against two girls. I had the best time. We played three games. I think we won all three but not sure haha. I often passed ball to guy. It was so very awesome. Felt so amazing and was a blast. Not sure why I don’t have courage to do that in Miami. Although I wasn’t looking to play game just happens. Magic. Pure magic!! I am now in my element.
Exploring, wandering. Letting my instinct guide me. No real agenda. day by day. Moment by moment. Meeting new people, making new friends, practicing Spanish, seeing new things. Everything is new exciting and beautiful. My senses are stimulated, everything is heightened.
Being out of your routine. Learning about new cultures, bridging divides we’re all human. Realizing how much to be grateful for. Learning to be more open and friendly back at home.
Bring on my own is thrilling. Nothing like feeling you can do everything on your own. Anything is possible. And you just let your own inner compass guide you.
I used to play second fiddle. Thought I was dependent on my ex for Spanish, felt like an outsider following him around doing the talking the socializing and then I became so quiet. But on my own… I get to socialize and be the director of my own life, my own journey. I am not second to anyone. I get to practice Spanish and prove to myself I am fully one hundred percent capable, friendly, open and just so damn happy and grateful to be doing this.
One week here and I’ve already lived so much, experienced so much. Met tons of people. Having time of my life. I am free. Independent. Secure with myself. Happy. So very very happy.
Today a dog guided me down the mirador. So cool.
Right now I desire for nothing. I feel full, nourished, complete.
Day 8 – San Marcos
Day 9 – Rostro maya sunrise hike, Market, Mirador San Pedro
Was cool experience hiking at night with stars, used phone light for illumination. was definitely hard going up again but I kept up with the group and luckily our guide kept good pace and stopped twice for breaks which was very helpful to catch my breath and drink.
Met really cool couple from German this morning on hike, traveling weird like that where you have conversations and meet so many people you’ll likely never see again in your life, but I still enjoy meeting them and it’s part of experience.
San Pedro feels like home right now. Maybe it’s combo of general vibe, friendly people.
Thursday, March 7 – Chichicastenango day trip
Friday, March 8 – Lake Atitlan (San Pedro)
What a disaster yesterday. Ate leftover hummus and shakshuka- messed up my stomach. Food poisoning or something. It bothered me but not enough to stop me from going to chichi. I told myself at any point I could turn around but I didn’t. I guess I was hoping it would pass and it was off and on and not terrible pain just really uncomfortable. But then when I got to chichi after boat ride and 3 changes on chicken buses I was depleted of energy, couldn’t move and overwhelmed by what seems like just another market. But I wasn’t feeling well enough to walk around at all. I just say down someplace off to the side, quiet for at least 30 in. No appetite, no energy. I had no choice really but just go back and repeat same journey I just made. Total insanity. Didn’t make it back until 4pm and I left at 7:30am. Nuts. I made it there at 10:10am, probably left to go home before 12pm so don’t know what took so long. The boat ride coming back, not feeling well, was rough. Stopped at like 5 places. Jaibalito, tzutzun, Santa Cruz, San Marcos… like never ending, and rough sometimes way boat slams down. I couldn’t move when I got to hotel. Just lay in bed. Threw up when I got to Pana and threw up as soon as I got to my room.
Even though I have a headache and am not feeling fully myself, I am still a hundred percent better than yesterday when I couldn’t move and felt so very ill. I am so grateful for that.
Saturday, March 9 – Lake Atitlan (San Pedro)
Woke up from stomach pains. It’s weird to be traveling but stuck on my iPad all day and not be out exploring.
Tuesday March 12 – shuttle to Semuc Champey
Glad to my new place. But just hilarious. You get what pay for. No sound proofing. Hear neighbor playing crazy loud music as if fiesta. I want to join haha.
Music from fiesta finally ended hallelujah.
Things I miss and take for granted:
Throwing toilet paper in toilet
Sound proofing
Using credit cards
Not having to go to atm to get cash
Being able to drink tap water
Having my own toilet
Making my own food.
Not worrying about getting ripped off
Not getting ripped off
Being charged diff price as tourist
Clean air that doesn’t smell like diesel fuel.
My family
My friends
Biking.
Things I am appreciating:
Cheap places to stay – but there’s a trade off…
Seeing new places, having adventures.
Wednesday March 13 – Semuc Champey
Slept well here. Had to use earplugs… was just quite loud with dogs barking, this morning nice to hear chickens early so woke up at 6am, ate breakfast here at 7am but need patience they cook everything fresh and other people there before me.
March 14 – Grutas de Lanquin (caves), tubing with guide. Hike.
As I was heading out to semuc she told me about this place called Cuevas de grutas. She said something about bathing in cold water. Said tuk tuk 10 or walk 25 min. I took tuk tuk there. Paid 30 entrance. I was in shock being in cave first time. Enormous. I was only one there felt super creepy like haunted house. Creepiest thing I ever did. As I went on got slippery with my sandals barefoot would prob be better but didn’t want take them off tried being careful because no reception and no one else there. I really enjoyed the experience solo without anyone. Was just truly wild. Then I went tubing with guide there.
March 16 – Flores. Jorge’s Rope Swing.
Wasn’t expecting Flores to be this touristy commercial modern city. I think I expected like a dead quiet little village but instead it’s vibrant and chill and quaint and has its own unique charm about it.
It seems the closer this trip comes to a close the more I find myself thoroughly enjoying every day here and most of the people I’m meeting and this way of living. I don’t really miss anyone or anything
March 17 – lancha to San Miguel
March 18 – Arca’s animal rescue, Flores
If you want to read about my itinerary and what I actually did, check out this post on my photography website.