Back in town from an amazing two weeks in El Salvador. Why El Salvador? I was looking into traveling to a Latin American country close to home and after researching a bunch of places, El Salvador felt like the right place for me. It’s a small country so I could see a lot in two weeks; I like that it’s not a very touristy place to travel to; and I found enough things to do there that excited me.

Initially I booked a ticket with Avianca for $268 because it offered good travel times. But then I received an email from them saying the flight coming home was changed from direct to a stopover, so I could either accept the flight change, or cancel it for free. I ended up cancelling it and booking a flight on Volaris El Salvador via Expedia for $115 roundtrip. It was the first time I can recall booking a flight through a third party service and not direct so I was a bit nervous about that, but the flight on Expedia was around $70 cheaper and had good reviews. In the end, it worked out perfectly. The flights ran on time and my experience with Volaris was great. Even though it’s a budget airlines, I didn’t see them check the size of anyone’s personal bag- just in case, I did place my backpack into their bins and it fit.

In total, I spent about $1,000 total, including airfare, travel insurance (Heymondo), accommodation, food, transport and activities. I stayed almost entirely in hostels dorms, except in Suchitoto where I found a delightful private room for $25 a night.

Two Week El Salvador Itinerary: March 1-16, 2026

March 1 – Fly Miami-San Salvador, landed at night. La Zona Hostel.
March 2 – San Salvador, La Zona Hostel
March 3-6 – Santa Ana, Casa Coca Hostel
March 6-9 – Juayua, Samay Hostel
March 9-12 – Sunzal (near El Tunco), Sunzal Surf Garden Hostel
March 12-13 – La Union, camped at El Espiritu de la Montaña
March 13-15 – Suchitoto, Casa Flamenco
March 15-16 – San Salvador, Hostal Cumbres del Volcan Flor Blanca
March 16 – early flight back home.

San Salvador > Santa Ana > Juayua (Ruta de las Flores) > El Tunco / Sunzal > La Union > Suchitoto > San Salvador

14 Day Breakdown:

San Salvador – 2 days (1 beginning of trip, 1 ending of trip)
– Day 1: Walking tour with Dave from Guru Walk, El Boqueron
– Day 2: Picnic steak house (rainbow slide), explored city center (live music & dancing on Sunday night in main square)

Santa Ana – 3 days
– Day 1: Santa Ana volcano hike, pupusa cooking class
– Day 2: El Salto de Malacatiupán (hot waterfalls)
– Day 3: Hector walking tour with Guru Walk

Juayua (base for Ruta de Las Flores) – 3 days
– Day 1: Visited Ataco (mirador) & Apaneca (Laguna Verde)
– Day 2: 7 waterfalls hike, Juayua food festival
– Day 3: Salcoatitan (ceiba tree) & Nahuizalco (La Golondrinera)

Sunzal (near El Tunco) – 3 days
– Day 1: Chill day at hostel
– Day 2: El Tunco, El Zonte beach day
– Day 3: chill/travel day to La Union

La Union / camping – 1 day
– camped overnight at El Espiritu de la Montana

Suchitoto – 2 days
– Day 1: Travel day; walk around town.
– Day 2: Boat ride on Lake Suchitlan, Museum of 1,000 plates, Cascada Los Tercios (waterfall dry, but great chill spot with views from mirador)

El Salvador – Travel Journal Snippets:

The adventure begins. I splurge on a moto for $3 to the park, it arrives in minutes. Everything I love has returned. My love and I – travel- have reunited. It’s like meeting up with a friend you’re excited to see.

The routine is broken. I’ve arrived in a new airport, a new place to lay my head. Breakfast is not my usual toast with hummus but “un desayuno típico”; scrambled eggs with refried beans, avocado, fried plantain, queso fresco and toast. Instead of driving I am whisked away on a motorcycle and taken to Parque Cuscatlan, where I hope to join a walking tour. Except I haven’t registered – I don’t want to join and be the only person… I want to scope it out. I step off the moto and before I even have the chance to roam the park alone, a man in a red t-shirt greets me. Hi! Are you looking for me – David? Are you doing a tour? It’s just past 9am and the tour I want to join doesn’t start until 9:45am. I ask him which tour, knowing there’s another tour that starts at 9am and turns out he is indeed from guru walk and 5 people have signed up – so I am lucky. If no one signs up he wouldn’t be here, he says.

Since I am early, I tell him I’ll go for a walk. I was hoping to start my day with a roam around the park but Parque Cuscatlan is roped off. I ask him why and he says that on weekends the park is llena de personas – full of people, and today is muy tranquila, and they will take care of the park today – park maintenance. I am disappointed, as a quiet park sounds perfect to me, but instead I find a pedestrian pathway that winds its way over the park with views of familiar trees from home – gumbo limbo, bottle brush tree, and mangos. Later on the walking tour, I learn that “not even chickens lay eggs on Mondays” 🙂

Feel like I’m here at the right time; on the cusp of so much change. This is what I love so much about travel, I am learning not from books or news but from being in a place. I just got a 4 hour lesson about a country’s past, present, and future from a local; walking the streets, going to a museum together, drinking horchata from a reputable stand.

Meeting people like Robert from New Zealand cycling from Alaska to Argentina. Unreal. About halfway through a 12k km journey. People going on insane adventures and living atypical, adventurous lives.

You have no idea how happy and excited I am to be here. Great to be out of the country again, too.

Welcome to El Salvador – a small country with big dreams. Home to over 230 (mostly inactive) volcanoes, a country that has seen multiple presidents and little change. From murder capital of world to one of the safest in the Americas.

—

I love nothing more than a couple hour bus ride where I am forced to relax and do nothing.

—

I just booked two nights in next hostel, also no hot water haha. It means I am taking super quick showers and bracing myself for the super cold water; forget about shampooing my hair or using soap on my body or shaving.

Honestly 2 weeks feels perfect. I can’t believe it’s only day 3- I already feel like I’ve done so much! Two weeks of this kind of travel is intense, tiring, adventurous, fun, exciting… and exhausting. But in the best way possible.

—

This is me. Solo wanderer, explorer, adventurer. Lives to see new things, interact with new people, to break free from routine, work, and the same old everyday life.

Travel is maybe the only time I can get along with -most- people I meet – if they’re open – because right off the bat we have something in common and something to talk about – what we’re doing, what we’ve done, what we’re planning to see.

Antonio tells me last night of where he wants to go next year – Asia. India, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines… we both want to go to South Africa and on safari.

It’s this excitement and his mention of all these places I haven’t been to – and he’s been to Balkans and liked it – that reinvigorates me. Also traveling like this is not for the old or tired, truly. It takes energy, and desire, and the physical and mental ability to do so. It’s not a typical, lay-on-the-beach vacation. It’s navigating public transport, asking many people how to get to a place, it’s trekking in the heat, it’s hiking up volcanoes under a searing sun, it’s holding on for dear life in the back of a pickup truck. It’s trying new foods and drinks and hoping and praying you don’t get ill from it. It’s really not for the faint of heart. This life is for people who seek something more; an unquenchable desire to explore; to learn; to challenge yourself; to leave everything and everyone you know and care about for something else that you love: adventure.

It’s also not just about sightseeing. It’s learning. Is there a better way to learn about history, culture and other ways of life than by being in a place? I think not. I soak up the knowledge from locals on walking tours, visit museums, and search the internet for other questions that arise along the way. I don’t get to just read about how El Salvador has changed, I get to experience it firsthand.

When you stay in hostels you have to accept that in your late 30s you might be the oldest one or close to it. That it will be rare to meet other people your age. If you do want to meet people your age, better to try guesthouses or tours. It’s harder, for sure. Most people my age are married with families, or traveling with a partner. I think it’s a tiny portion of people who are single and traveling solo, both men and women. But it’s ok. I’m happy. No, I’m thrilled, to be here doing this.

—

“We were meant to live for so much more”  (switchfoot song I’m listening to.)

–Santa Ana notes—

Stopped by two other cafes – Santein Cafe was dead, Beats Cafe was all gringos and inflated pricing totally designed for foreigners. So I have returned to Pirómano, where it’s always full of locals, great food, coffee, desserts, iced cold AC, WiFi.

Today was one of my favorite days and outings. It was an easy escape from the noise and fumes of the city, offering a gorgeous view of these waterfalls that you would think would be cold and refreshing but it’s actually hot! I took one direct bus 210 that leaves constantly from the main terminal and goes to Atiquizaya, takes about 40 min for .48. The bus leaves you off at Parque San Juan and from there you take a little taxi or tuk tuk for $2 down an unpaved, rocky and dusty road for a 10-15 min ride. It is quiet with few tourists there. I found a spot for myself and soaked in the hot water, until these tiny fish were bothering me, apparently drawn to every part of the human body. It was awesome. Then flagged taxi going back and he was honest, maybe because he already had passenger in back which I didn’t notice immediately. He charged me $2 whereas guy going there charged me $4.

After I got off at bus in Santa Ana, I walked through the outdoor market and even though I was listening to my music, I could hear noise coming from my right. I walk into this place where locals are playing their version of bingo! I was welcomed in, and it was no problem to watch and not take part. Their version of playing lottery. Play certain number of tabletas with corn! And can win $30-65? Not sure.

—

Today I am excited and ready to leave Santa Ana for Juayua. Damn can’t believe it’s Friday. Juayua has food festival on weekends so should be good timing. The next exciting adventure is the highly recommended 7 waterfalls hike and I’ve been told to wear sturdy shoes (and have dry bag).

I have only had cold one minute showers all week and more cold showers await.

—

Hector’s walking tour in Santa Ana:

Turns out he left El Salvador -escaped- at 15 with a backpack. Five of his friends were in gangs. He was pressured to join a gang. Which meant a group of men would beat you up for 15 minutes and if you survived the beating by putting your hands up you were in -and he didn’t think he would survive- or you had to kill someone, an innocent person the next person who would come around the corner, didn’t matter if it’s a kid or your brother or whoever; you’d have to shoot to be inducted and he didn’t want to do that either so he went home, packed a backpack, took different route home, stole $25 from his dad, took a chicken bus and went to the border of Guatemala to work on farm. His parents went to US. He came back 3 years ago, at 18 I suppose, he’s now 21, because of safety. All his friends have been killed – he made phone calls before returning. He feels safe. Parents came back too. Four sisters. In University studying sociology.

Will probably vote for Bukele even though doesn’t like him because no better option. Says like toxic relationship. Basically it’s been so bad here that for safety alone people are happy with I’m but there are no personal human rights, and still state of emergency which gives police right to shoot and do whatever they want. Basically they accept bare minimum and no one better.

Said story of how gangs would push someone’s mouth against concrete and break jaw and teeth. How they extorted 70% of everyone’s wages so were earning so little. How this woman couldn’t afford it anymore so they shot her in back over 50 times with handgun and her young son witnessed this and as revenge killed over 30 people in gang, and is now in prison (can watch an interview) has also raped etc. and has no remorse.

Didn’t speak well of US, never made things better and never welcomed them in with open arms. He then took us on food market tour which was AWESOME. Honestly wished I did it in other places like Vietnam, because I’d have no idea what to get and what’s safe to eat. My stomach is gurgling like crazy rest of day, but had some really good food. I loved this fried corn cake was amazing. And this sweet milk dish.

In the end glad I did the tour. To get that kind of first-hand perspective and story was enlightening. Also learned that official guides are endorsed by government and then must not criticize so explains why Dave in San Salvador gave such glossy review of Bukele without any criticisms and didn’t mention state of emergency, loss of human rights, and just painted this rosy photo of how amazing things are now – which in comparison they are, and how Bukele doesn’t pocket all money like previous politicians, but he didn’t explain it well like Hector did; was very rosy and one sided. Hector also said with tattoos he gets stopped a lot, how a tourist in El Tunco was imprisoned because of tattoo he got and not sure what happened to him.

But here he is 21 doing this walking tour after got fired two months after doing call center job for Walmart and says people cursing him out and his accent and wanted to speak to American. And using money to help pay for his university.
—

Juayua:
I felt such relief to be out of Santa Ana which felt so dirty, chaotic, noisy, full of fumes and here it’s so much quieter, cleaner, prettier, more in mountains; cooler but cloudy. The vibes here are so good, the beds so large. I see why people like it so much. I saw they have private room with terrace for $35 available so I extended night to treat myself to a one-day break from the dorm. I can’t wait.

—
It is pouring so hard now. Got so lucky that it didn’t rain earlier! I have no rain gear. It takes having a dorm room to appreciate private room. To have cold showers to appreciate hot water. Upset stomach to appreciate clean food and water. Cars with fumes, broken down sidewalks, unpaved roads to appreciate breathing clean air and paved streets and sidewalks.

We take so much for granted, and live such rich, grandiose lifestyles with the ability to travel anywhere we want. Traveling here is a great reminder of just how fortunate I am.

—

Apaneca / Laguna Verde:

Hired taxi to take me to Laguna Verde for $10 to go, wait for me, and come back. It was the exact price I had in mind, didn’t even bargain.

Was 20 minute ride up a very bumpy unpaved road, his car stalled several times. He would turn it off, then on again and worked thank god. We made it there and was surprised to find lots of locals, I thought it was a deserted place relatively unknown but nope. I was the only tourist as far as I could tell. You could rent bikes or take boat ride around lake. I walked around it, took about 10-15 min and saw two beautiful blue and black birds. Then sat on chair relaxing watching the clouds slowly settle in the trees above the water, passing in and out. I was getting cold though was nearly 5pm. My taxi driver packs a woman’s stuff into and on top of his car, tying down two of her display tables.

—
Sunzal (near El Tunco)

There is nothing better than having a day like today where nothing is on the agenda. A day to relax and just read. Do nothing. Only thing I am doing is writing places for surf lesson for tomorrow.

Otherwise sitting on chair feeling ocean breeze, reading. No bus to catch, to town to explore, no tour to go on. No work (except emails; still booking jobs for home); no set agenda.

What most people do on vacation is not what I do on vacation. It’s more of an adventure. Which I love! But having days like today is important to take care of myself and not feel burnt out.

I think that’s been biggest lesson for me and also why solo travel is awesome – it’s ultimate self-care. It’s listening to myself and taking care of my needs.

It’s knowing when I want and am up for an adventure, knowing when I need a day like today to just chill. When I want to eat out and when I’m craving my own food. When it’s time to splurge on a private room.

I was thinking of going to barber shop to get head shaved today… while I like the feminine look of ponytail, I can no longer stand the feeling of so much hair and having my hair pulled back. I don’t like how my hair looks when down. And I so want to feel the feeling of short hair again. Plus I think women who shave their heads looks like bad-asses. At this point in my life comfort trumps looks, and fuck men who don’t like it or aren’t into it. Life now is about pleasing myself and no one else. I already spent too many years doing that.

—

I had this profound feeling today of finding myself here; between the feeling of authenticity with the haircut, and the joy I felt in the waves, it was this feeling of contentment and joy and arrival and happy just being. I would lay back and let the current drag me in, spit me back out and twist me around. I admired the sun shining on the hills which looks like a double humped camel. I’d have my gaze set strictly on the wave as it approached, a frothy swell threatening to overtake me. I lay back shrieking in delight, body floating inches above the black sandy floor bed, as it would rapidly come closer into view. Then just before it would crash over me, I’d stand up or kneel and then put my back toward the wave and press up against its power.

The lifeguard whistled at people who dared to go further out. There were three young men who refused to listen and would dive into the waves. The lifeguard notified some policeman – I noticed a very heavy police presence in El Zonte, the most I’ve seen yet, several men posted next to and in front of resorts – who had a 10 minute chat with them. I thought maybe they’d get fined. Next thing you know the men are back in the water diving into the waves, but soon after they took off. It looked like their parents were nearby as the dad joined them once the police approached.

I tried to be cautious, knowing how dangerous water can be. In the US I don’t believe they would’ve allowed anyone into the water at all. Not with those conditions. Even at one point I realized I had allowed the waves to drag me in too deep, and I quickly went back to shore. One wave was so strong and powerful it overtook me and dragged me quite a few feet to shore. When I emerged, a woman nearby remarked at how strong it was. Sometimes I felt slightly burned by the force of it dragging my body against the sand, and other times I felt like I could have sprained or even broken an ankle or wrist at the power with which it would come at me. I’ve never experienced anything like it in my life, but it was extremely fun.

I ended up retreating when I realized how potentially dangerous it could be – even with the one lifeguard there he didn’t seem to be intently watching us and sometimes was chatting with someone- and so I went further ashore, covering my limbs with the heavy, waterlogged black sand that I imagine is from volcanic ash.

—
Smoothie in bag, spilling on bus.

Silk Road. Africa. China. Camper van. National parks. Nature. Bike packing. Adventures. Loving life. Travel world. India. Pakistan. Why settle for a boring life when you only have one shot at this? Fuck living life just to made money. Adventure, a real life awaits if you just leave.

—
7:05pm Oooph was my longest travel day but thankfully all went well, and very thankful I chose Suchitoto; that I had time to come here, and found a private room for $25 with AC! Several mosquitoes made their way in and were taunting me 😭 otherwise all is great and right in the center of town and next door to plate museum everyone mentions!

I love Suchitoto so much. So glad to be here; unlike anywhere else in El Salvador. It’s small, quiet, charming. So much of El Salvador is noisy, dirty, chaotic, polluted. Even pretty places like el Sunzal / en tunco are situated close to busy main loud road. But Suchitoto has quiet, small-town charming vibes – similar to Villa de Leyva; even to Antigua but better because smaller and less touristy. It just is refreshing. It’s clean, cobblestones, with a cool breeze at night – I know during the day I will be roasting. All to say, all signs are pointing to the fact that I should extend my stay one night – I love it here; I prefer it over the chaos of San Salvador.
—

I’m so happy here. Being in this hotel, in this city, in this country. Right here, right now. My windows are open and I have a view of the garden. No jobs, no responsibilities, nowhere to be. No list of tasks to get done. Just me existing on this planet.

—
Why is it that I am so happy and content here? Slowing down, enjoying life. Having the ability to do this. Why do I not really wonder much about my purpose when I’m traveling? It’s like I’m doing what I was meant to do, and that uneasiness I get sometimes at home is sign I need to do something else – this. This is why I was put on earth. There’s really no other way to explain my contentment when I’m doing this, and how everything always seems to conspire to help me along my journey.

This journal when traveling is basically how many times can I tell you that I love to be here doing this, over and over again, in the same or similar way? Hahaha.